The thing that gives me the shits about surfing here in the winter isn’t so much the cold but the lack of daylight.
And this day was a classic example of a dark winters day conspiring against you. Firstly we had a big spring high tide at around 9am and secondly we only had 7 hours of daylight to play around with. This meant the only option of catching a surf was on the retreating tide which any yellow belly surfer knows can make a decent swell literally disappear before your eyes. The best of this swell probably came at about 6 that evening, which was well under the cover of darkness!!
However you got to take what Aegir gives you and remember to enjoy it regardless….